From Diving to Digging into my Roots: My Unforgettable Philippines Adventure

Dan's Dive shop divers on a dive boat in Bohol Philippines

A group shot of (almost) all of us while diving off Anda, Bohol in the Philippines

Some trips are about the destination, others about the journey—this one was both. This past January and February, I traveled to the Philippines—not just to dive and explore the ocean’s beauty but also my own roots. The adventure began with leading a dive group for Dan’s Dive Shop, staying at the incredible Magic Island dive resort on Cebu and Magic Oceans dive resort on Bohol, both perfect for our dive-obsessed guests. But beyond the dives, this trip was also a homecoming, reconnecting with family on my birth island.

Some experiences stay with you forever. Here are a few of my favourite memories from this unforgettable trip.

Spanked by a Whale Shark in Oslob Cebu! 

We did a dive first and then snorkelled alongside these magnificent creatures! Being in the water with whale sharks was an experience beyond words. I knew they were massive, but seeing them up close was something else entirely. These gentle giants moved effortlessly through the water, and at one point, one surprised me by swimming up behind me and spanking me with its tail as it passed. I suspect they were just babies, but even so, their sheer size left me in awe. 

Diving and swimming with whalesharks in Oslob Cebu Philippines

Left: Scubadiving beneath a pair of feeding Whale Sharks. Right: The beautiful spots and patterns as a Whale Shark passes us while snorkelling.

 

Surrounded by Sardines in Moalboal

Drifting through a swirling vortex of sardines during the famous Sardine Run puts a smile on my face even just recalling it! Bait balls of them moved above and around us, shifting in perfect unison like a single, pulsing creature. The sheer number of fish was wild—one moment, they’d part like a curtain, and the next, they’d tighten into a dense silver cloud, catching the light as they twisted and turned. It felt like swimming inside a living, breathing work of art—constantly changing, reacting, and reshaping itself with every little movement.

Thousands of sardines in Moalboal Cebu

Surrounded by large bait ball during the sardine run dive

From the Tiniest Critters to the Biggest Turtles

The waters of the Philippines are full of the weirdest and most wonderful creatures—some so tiny you’d miss them if you weren’t looking closely. I found hairy crabs walking sideways along the sandy bottom, pygmy seahorses no bigger than my pinky finger nail, and nudibranchs that struck out in sharp colourful contrast against the less colourful parts of the reef. But just when I thought I was focused on the smallest details, some of the biggest turtles I’ve ever seen would drift past, completely unbothered by my presence. Turtles were almost guaranteed on every dive! Soooo wonderful!! Seeing the tiniest critters hiding in the reef and then looking up to spot a massive turtle gliding by felt like experiencing the ocean’s full scale in a single dive.

Decorator crab, nudibranch and unidentified crab in the Philippines

So many tiny wonderful creatures that were almost easy to miss-until they started moving or their colours were so vibrant against the corals

Turtle resting on some bright red soft corals

Turtle coming to rest on top of a large soft coral swinging gently in the current

Blue spotted sting ray on sand

A Blue spotted stingray suddenly rises, shakes the sand off its back and swims off!

Diving the House Reef After Dark

We were able to do up to four dives a day with one being a daily night dive. Night diving was a whole different vibe-I love them! As we descended into the darkness, I could see the lights of my dive buddies scattered around, their beams cutting through the water. The creatures that came out at night were just amazing. We spotted a cuttlefish by some soft corals—it was the first time I’d ever seen one underwater, and it was huge! The picture doesn’t really do its size justice. Watching it hovering casually while its colours shifted hypnotically was mesmerizing. It was so relaxed, just hanging out while we watched, completely in its element.


The lights of some divers illuminating the rocks and sand during a night dive in the Philippines

The lights of divers illuminating some coral heads during a night dive

A cuttlefish hovers beside some yellow fan corals during a night dive

A large cuttlefish hovering beside a brilliant yellow featherstar during a night dive

 

Another highlight of the night dives was spotting Mandarin fish for the first time. Our guides had briefed us beforehand on their fascinating (and surprisingly dramatic) mating ritual, which happens like clockwork at dusk. As the sun set, we positioned ourselves around a coral head, waiting. Sure enough, as the light faded, the tiny, neon-colored males started showing off—fluttering their fins, shimmying around, and generally trying to impress the ladies. The females played it cool, taking their time before finally picking a partner. Then, in a blink-and-you’ll-miss-it moment, each pair pressed their bellies together and hovered just above the reef—ever so slowly together—just before "the deed". And just like that—wham, bam, thank you, ma’am! The whole thing was over in less time than it took to process what we’d just seen. Because we weren’t allowed to use lights, our eyes adjusted naturally, making the moment even more surreal. For one brief second, the guide flicked on his light, and we finally saw them in all their psychedelic glory!

A colourful pair of Mandarin fish hover together above their coral home

A pair of colourful Mandarin fish hover above the coral together during their mating ritual

Painting Memories with the Guests

Not everyone in our group was a diver, so we took an afternoon to offer something special to the non-diving partners and family members. I led a creative session, where everyone, whether they had dived or not, got the chance to create their own souvenir of the trip. We focused on painting lively, active coral reefs—capturing the colours, movement, and energy of the underwater world. It was a great way for everyone to connect with the ocean’s magic, even if they didn’t experience it firsthand. Watching everyone dive into their creativity and leave with a piece of the trip was a reminder of how art can help us share and remember special moments, no diving required.

Group of people holding their artwork under a sun umbrella in front of the ocean in the Philippines

Left: Showing off our artwork after an afternoon of painting together at Magic Islands Dive resort, Right: Painting by Brandy Brave!

The Warmth and Hospitality

One of the things that made this trip so special was the incredible people we met along the way. The staff at both Magic Island and Magic Oceans made us feel right at home, always greeting us with big smiles and genuine warmth. They knew us by name from day one!! The dive crews, divemasters, and boat teams weren’t just experts at what they do—they were friendly, funny, and made every dive even more enjoyable. (The divemasters had eagle eyes in spotting some of the marine life!). Getting around and exploring was a breeze since everyone spoke English, but what really stood out was just how welcoming and kind everyone was. And it wasn’t just because I’m Filipina by birth—that’s just who they are. No matter where we went, their generosity and hospitality made this stay unforgettable.

staff in the kitchen at Magic Island and the dive crew at Magic Oceans helping a stranded boater

Left: the top notch hospitality staff at Magic Island preparing another one of the amazing meals, Right: The dive crew at Magic Oceans stopping to help tow a stranded fisherman.

Once the diving portion of the trip wrapped up and the guests had started to make their way home or travelled to other parts of the Philippines for more exploring, I took extra time to travel to Marinduque—the island where I was born—to reconnect with family and experience the places my father had always told stories about. What followed was an unforgettable mix of adventure, discovery, and homecoming.

Returning to My Birth Island, Marinduque

The ferry ride from Lucena Port in Luzon to Marinduque was full of anticipation for me. It was about two hours, but as the outline of Luzon started to fade into the sky behind us, Marinduque began to appear in the horizon—a little irregular line at first, but soon the island started to materialize out of the blue sky and the ocean ahead.

Selfie on the ferry with Marinduque island behind artist Grace Marquez

Couldn't resist a selfie from the ferry as we approached Marinduque 

View of Natangco islet from the ferry

View of Natangco Islet on the port side of the ferry as we turned into Balanacan Port, Marinduque

As we got closer, the island’s beauty was breathtaking. The smaller surrounding islets, blanketed in thick green jungle, looked untouched—like a glimpse into a world before everything became busy and modern. It felt as if time had stood still, preserving its natural beauty in a way that was rare and frozen in time.

Then, as we neared the island, the ferry turned port side into the sheltered waters of Balanacan Port. The port was tucked away, protected from the open sea, and it was so calm. Docking there felt like I was coming home to a place I remembered only vaguely from stories my dad used to tell. Seeing the island in all its beauty, and knowing I was about to step foot in a place so tied to my roots, was something I can’t quite put into words. It was one of those moments where you feel completely connected to something much bigger than yourself.

A Heartfelt Homecoming with Family

Reconnecting with family I hadn’t seen since I was three years old was honestly one of the most moving parts of this trip. Even though I’ve spent most of my life as a proud Canadian, walking through the streets of Boac (the town I was born in), sparked something inside me—like a forgotten imprint being triggered. It wasn’t just recognizing the landmarks my dad had described from his youth, but feeling an undeniable connection to the place.

Artist Grace Marquez standing in front of BOAC Town square and on the right in front of her family ancestral home

Left: Standing in front of BOAC Town square, Right: In front of my family's ancestral home in Poras

The more I wandered around, the more familiar everything became. Slowly, I started knowing my way around, as if I’d been there before. It felt like something deep within me had always remembered this place, and seeing it for myself now felt like finally putting the pieces of a long-lost puzzle back together. 

I've been to the Philippines once before but had met my mom's side of the family. And while it was just as welcoming, I've always been very similar to my dad and his side of the family. I'm definitely a Marquez as they'd say!

Walking My Family’s Land

I had the chance to walk around my family’s ancestral land. My older cousin and his grandson showed me around, sharing their knowledge of the trees, plants, and fruits that grow there. They pointed out mango, coconut, and palm trees, explaining their uses and the traditions tied to them. It was fascinating to connect with the land and learn about how it’s been passed down through the generations.

A  young boy and his grandfather are seen from behind walking through a forest of coconut trees

Following behind my grand nephew and cousin as they show me my father's land

Walking through it, meeting the caretakers and multiple generations of families who have tended to it, was profoundly special. It was more than just land—it was a living connection to my family’s history and resilience.

I was loaned a pair of waders and galoshes, which made it easier to walk through the dense growth beneath the tall palms and bamboo. The ground wasn’t muddy, but it was definitely thick with greenery. As we walked, the bamboo trunks would knock together in the wind, creating a hollow sound—almost like the land itself was playing music. It was a peaceful and unique sound, one I won’t forget.

After our walk, we made our way to a nearby public beach. Just as we got there, a quick rainstorm rolled in—super fast and intense. We were soaked in seconds, but the rain passed just as quickly. It was like nature’s way of adding a little extra magic to the day.

Scuba Diving Among Marinduque’s Moriones Statues

Diving in Marinduque felt like a natural extension of my journey. The Moriones Reef, with its dozens of submerged Roman soldier statues, was both eerie and fascinating. These statues are tied to the island’s famous Easter festival and now stand as silent sentinels beneath the waves, reminding us of the rich culture and traditions that go beyond just souvenirs and T-shirts.

Moriones sculptures standing on the sand off Torrijos beach for scuba divers

The Moriones sculptures resting at about 60-70 feet make an interesting dive off Torrijos White Beach 

Marinduque is known for its Moriones Festival during Lent, where you’ll find parades, celebrations of penitence, and expressions of gratitude. The figure of Longinus, the Roman centurion, plays a huge role in the festival and they're found all over the island as statues and souvenirs. According to the story, Longinus mocked and pierced the side of Christ during His crucifixion, and when drops of Christ’s blood fell into his blind eye, he was healed. This miracle sparked a deep faith in Longinus that ultimately led to his persecution and martyrdom. Whether Catholic or not, it’s a remarkable mix of Roman history, biblical stories, and Filipino traditions.Learning about the significance of the Moriones symbol made diving here and seeing the statues underwater even more meaningful—far beyond the typical souvenirs my friends and family would bring back from the Philippines with the symbol on them.

The Moriones sculptures, which sit around 60-70 feet down, are part of a dive site off Torrijos White Beach. What makes it even more interesting is the work being done by Kantilado Dive and Adventure Hub, who are actively involved in coral restoration in the area. They’ve placed these concrete statues underwater as part of creating a dive site with real meaning tied to the island. Over time, the statues will transform into an artificial reef, attracting marine life. Eventually, each statue will be holding a steel sword, further enhancing its role in the ecosystem.

View of Mount Malindig from Poctoy White Beach in Torrijos Marinduque Philippines

View of Mount Malindig from Poctoy White Beach in Torrijos, Marinduque

At the end of our dives there, we would surface to the view of Mount Malindig, the island’s largest volcano. Diving in the Moriones Reef felt almost surreal, with the Roman soldier statues standing guard beneath the surface. It was like diving through time, with Mount Malindig watching over everything, bringing the island’s history, culture, and nature together in the most amazing way.

Standing at the Heart of the Philippines - Luzon Datum of 1911

A Filipino tricycle is a motorcycle with a covered sidecar, commonly used for getting around locally and short trips. Taking a tricycle ride up to the Luzon Datum of 1911 was a journey in itself, but the view at the top was worth it. Known as the geographical heart of the Philippines, this spot holds both literal and figurative significance. The Luzon Datum of 1911 is basically the starting point for all land surveys and maps in the Philippines. Think of it as the country’s official "zero" point—from which all of the Philippines was mapped. Looking out at the breathtaking landscape, I felt deeply connected—not just to my heritage, but to the land and culture hat have shaped my life in so many ways. My dad has always proudly stated that the province of Marinduque was the "heart of the Philippines" and I thought that was great marketing—but this tiny tiny island really is the centre of the Philippines!

View of filipino tricycle going up and down steep road in Marinduque

Left: Taking a break along the steep road up to the Luzon Datum, Right: Heading back down the road with a view of the islets below

The stone marker and view at the Luzon Datum in the Philippines

Left: Standing beside the stone marker that indicates the Luzon Datum of 1911, the Philippines Geodetic Centre, Right: The view from the Luzon Datum.

Putong Celebration: A Warm Welcome and Family Celebration

On our last full day in Marinduque, before heading back to Luzon and Manila, we celebrated my uncle’s 91st birthday in a truly memorable way. The family gathered for the occasion, but it wasn’t just a birthday celebration—it was also a special moment for me and my friends. As part of the island's tradition, we were honoured with a putong, a custom that welcomes new visitors to Marinduque with song, dance, and celebration.

Filipinas in long blue traditional gowns welcoming visitors to Marinduque with a song and dance

Left: A group of performers and Marinduque locals sing and dance as a welcome to newcomers to the island, Right: Showing off my crown and necklace which of course has a Morion on it!

The ladies who performed the putong wore beautiful blue dresses, styled in the traditional national costume of the Philippines. Their vibrant singing and dancing made the moment feel even more special, and the sense of hospitality and warmth from the community was overwhelming. There was food, laughter, and a feeling of togetherness that made the day unforgettable. It was a heartfelt experience that made me feel truly connected to the island and its people, and a perfect way to wrap up my time on Marinduque before heading back home.

Final Reflections

This trip wasn’t just about adventure—it was about connection; to the ocean, to my family, to the places that shaped my history. From the moment I stepped into the water with whale sharks to the final sunset over Marinduque, every experience felt like a piece of a larger story—one of discovery, belonging, and deep appreciation for this remarkable place.

I know I’ll be back. Until then, I’ll carry these moments with me, both in memory and on canvas. (They've already inspired some new paintings! 😉)

 

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